4 Days in Transylvania: Brasov, Castles & Mountains

Beyond the Dracula myth lies one of Europe's most beautiful regions. Explore medieval cities, mountain fortresses, and villages where time stands still.

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Transylvania suffers from a branding problem. Bram Stoker's novel has reduced this stunning region to vampire clichés and Halloween kitsch. The reality is far more interesting: Saxon fortified churches, Hungarian heritage, Romanian mountain traditions, and landscapes that shift from rolling farmland to dramatic Carpathian peaks.

This four-day itinerary uses Brașov as your base to explore the best of Transylvania—castles that outshine their Dracula associations, mountain villages virtually unchanged since the Middle Ages, and a cultural depth that rewards travelers who look beyond the tourism marketing.

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Day 1: Brașov Old Town

Morning: Council Square & Around

Arrive in Brașov and settle into your accommodation before exploring the city's medieval heart.

Council Square (Piața Sfatului) The soul of Brașov, this market square has been the city's center since the 13th century. The Council House (Casa Sfatului) dominates one end—now a history museum worth a quick visit. Cafés line the square; grab an outdoor table if the weather cooperates.

Black Church (Biserica Neagră) Walk to the Black Church, the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. It earned its name after a 1689 fire blackened its walls. Inside, note the extraordinary collection of Anatolian rugs—donated by merchants over centuries—and the 4,000-pipe organ that still hosts concerts.

Rope Street (Strada Sforii) Find this street—one of the narrowest in Europe—tucked between buildings just off the main square. It's 80 meters long but barely wide enough for two people to pass.

Late Morning: Mount Tâmpa

Take the cable car from the center up to Mount Tâmpa (960m). The ride takes three minutes; the views reward for hours. Walking trails loop around the summit, and you can hike down (about an hour) through forest paths.

Tip: The cable car runs every 30 minutes. Go early to beat queues on weekends.

Lunch: Traditional Romanian

Sergiana near the Council Square serves traditional Romanian cuisine in a wood-paneled cellar. Try:

• Ciorbă de burtă — Tripe soup (more delicious than it sounds)
• Sarmale — Cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice
• Mămăligă — Romanian polenta, served with sour cream and cheese

Budget €10-15 for a filling meal.

Afternoon: Fortifications & Views

The Citadel (Cetățuia) Climb the stairs behind the Black Church to the 15th-century fortress on Strajă Hill. The walls are largely intact, and the panoramic views over Brașov's terracotta rooftops make the climb worthwhile.

Defensive Walls & Towers Brașov was a fortified Saxon city, and much of its defensive architecture survives. Walk the remaining sections of the city walls and visit the Black Tower (Turnul Negru) and White Tower (Turnul Alb) for more views and a sense of medieval urban planning.

Catherine's Gate (Poarta Ecaterinei) The only original city gate still standing, this 1559 structure with four corner turrets is one of Brașov's most photographed monuments.

Evening: Drinks & Dinner

Coffee: Kaffé on Republicii Street serves some of the best coffee in town in a sleek, modern space.

Dinner: Prato Pizzeria offers excellent wood-fired pizzas at reasonable prices—a good break from heavy Romanian cuisine. Or try Hof Cafe for a refined take on local dishes in a courtyard setting.

Drinks: Deane's Irish Pub has been a backpacker institution for decades, but for something more local, try a țuică (plum brandy) at a traditional restaurant.

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Day 2: Bran & Rășnov

Morning: Bran Castle

Bran Castle is 30km from Brașov—the fortress marketed as "Dracula's Castle." Let's be clear: Vlad Țepeș (the historical figure who inspired Dracula) probably never spent more than a passing night here. But the castle is genuinely impressive regardless of vampire mythology.

What to See: Built in the 14th century on a rocky outcrop above the Bran pass, the castle's maze-like interior includes narrow staircases, secret passages, and rooms furnished as they were when Queen Marie of Romania used it as a summer residence in the 1920s.

Getting There:

• Bus: Regular service from Brașov Autogară 2 (30 minutes, €1.50)
• Car/Taxi: More convenient if you're combining with Rășnov

Tip: Arrive before 10am to avoid tour groups. Skip the "Dracula" souvenirs in the village and head straight to the castle.

Lunch: Bran Village

The village below the castle has plenty of restaurants serving tourist fare. For something better, try Brandusa or Casa din Bran for traditional Transylvanian dishes with mountain views.

Afternoon: Rășnov Citadel

Rășnov Fortress (Cetatea Râșnov), 15km from Bran, is the region's most impressive defensive structure. Built by Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, it sits atop a hill overlooking the town and surrounding valleys.

Unlike Bran, Rășnov isn't overrun with tourists. The approach involves climbing through the citadel's concentric defensive walls, and the views from the top are spectacular—snow-capped Carpathians stretching to the horizon.

Don't Miss: Inside the fortress, look for the 146-meter-deep well, dug by Turkish prisoners over 17 years.

Getting There: From Bran, drive 15 minutes or take a bus back toward Brașov and stop at Rășnov.

Return to Brașov

Head back to Brașov for an evening at leisure. Walk the Republicii pedestrian street as locals do their evening stroll, then find a restaurant terrace for dinner.

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Day 3: Saxon Villages

Full Day: Fortified Churches Circuit

Today's journey takes you into the Saxon heartland—villages built by German colonists 800 years ago, centered on extraordinary fortified churches. These UNESCO World Heritage sites are Transylvania's hidden treasures.

You'll need a car for this route, or you can book a guided tour from Brașov.

Prejmer

Start at Prejmer (20km from Brașov), home to the largest fortified church in southeastern Europe. The church is surrounded by a massive defensive wall with four levels of storage rooms where villagers would shelter during invasions—some 275 individual chambers, complete with a system for identifying who belonged where.

Viscri

Continue to Viscri (60km from Prejmer), the most famous Saxon village thanks to Prince Charles, who bought and restored a farmhouse here. The approach to Viscri crosses rolling farmland that feels unchanged since medieval times.

What to See:

• The fortified church with its stunning hilltop position
• Village streets where horse carts outnumber cars
• Local guesthouses serving traditional lunches

Lunch: Book ahead at one of Viscri's guesthouses—The Prince's Guesthouse (owned by Prince Charles's foundation) or White Barn both serve excellent homemade Romanian food.

Saschiz & Sighișoara (Optional Extension)

If time allows, continue to Saschiz (another fortified church and hilltop citadel) or push on to Sighișoara—the birthplace of Vlad Țepeș and one of Europe's best-preserved medieval citadels.

Sighișoara deserves more than a drive-by visit, so consider staying overnight if you want to explore properly.

Return to Brașov

Drive back to Brașov via small roads through Saxon villages. The landscape—haystacks, farmworkers, horses pulling carts—often feels like traveling back in time.

Evening: Celebration Dinner

Tonight, celebrate your Transylvania exploration with dinner at Bella Muzica, a restaurant in a beautiful courtyard near the Black Church. The Romanian and international menu is excellent, and the setting is memorable.

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Day 4: Mountains or Departure

Depending on your departure time, choose one of these final morning activities.

Option A: Bucegi Mountains

If you have a full day and good weather, the Bucegi Mountains offer spectacular hiking. Take the cable car from Bușteni (45 minutes from Brașov) to the plateau and walk to natural rock formations like Babele (The Old Women) and Sfinxul (The Sphinx).

Important: Check weather before going; the plateau can be dangerous in fog or storms.

Option B: Peleș Castle

Peleș Castle in Sinaia (45km from Brașov) is Romania's most beautiful palace—a Neo-Renaissance fantasy built by King Carol I in the 1870s. The interior is staggering: 160 rooms, including a Moorish room, a Turkish salon, and a theater.

Getting There: Train from Brașov to Sinaia (45 minutes, €3), then walk 2km uphill to the castle.

Tip: The exterior and grounds are free; interior visits require a guided tour (€50 for the full tour, €30 for partial).

Option C: Slow Morning in Brașov

If you're departing midday, spend a final morning in Brașov:

• Coffee at Kaffé or Croissants Bistro
• Final wander through the Old Town
• Pick up Romanian souvenirs: painted eggs, embroidered textiles, honey products

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Practical Information

Getting to Brașov

From Bucharest: Trains run regularly (2.5-3 hours, €10-15). The train journey is scenic, crossing through the Carpathians.

From Budapest: Train via Arad and Alba Iulia (12+ hours) or fly to Bucharest and train from there.

By Car: Excellent road from Bucharest; crossing from Hungary via Oradea is scenic but long.

Getting Around

A rental car is strongly recommended for Day 2 and essential for Day 3. Roads are generally good, though some Saxon villages require driving on unpaved lanes.

Without a car: Join organized tours from Brașov, available at most hotels and tourism offices.

Where to Stay in Brașov

Old Town: Stay within walking distance of Council Square. Casa Wagner offers historic atmosphere; Hotel & Cafe & Wine Bar Casa Chitic combines excellent rooms with a great restaurant.

Budget: Hostels and guesthouses around the Old Town start at €20/night.

Splurge: Bella Muzica and Hotel & Restaurant Bella Muzica offer charming courtyard accommodations.

Budget

Romania is excellent value:

• Coffee: €1.50-2.50
• Lunch: €5-10
• Dinner: €10-20
• Castle entry: €5-15
• Cable car (Brașov): €6 round trip
• Rental car: €30-40/day

Best Time to Visit

• May-June: Wildflowers, pleasant weather
• September-October: Harvest season, autumn colors
• December: Christmas markets in Brașov, Sighișoara
• Winter: Ski season at Poiana Brașov

What to Pack

• Comfortable walking shoes (cobblestones in Old Towns)
• Layers (mountain weather changes quickly)
• Cash (rural areas often don't accept cards)
• Camera (you'll use it constantly)

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The Verdict

Transylvania exceeds every expectation. Forget the vampire clichés—the real Transylvania is far more compelling: Saxon villages where time stopped centuries ago, mountain fortresses with million-dollar views, and a cultural richness that reflects centuries of Hungarian, German, and Romanian influence.

Four days barely scratches the surface, but it's enough to understand why those who visit Transylvania often start planning their return before they leave.

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Interested in Romania's hidden corners? Check out Brasov: Romania's Most Beautiful Mountain Town for more on this incredible region.