3 Days in Riga: Exploring Latvia's Art Nouveau Capital

Medieval spires, the world's finest Art Nouveau, and a food scene that'll surprise you. Here's how to spend the perfect long weekend in the Baltic's most beautiful city.

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Riga doesn't try to compete with Prague or Vienna. Latvia's capital has its own rhythm—a city where 13th-century churches stand beside 800 Art Nouveau buildings, where converted Zeppelin hangars house Europe's largest market, and where a specialty coffee culture rivals Stockholm's.

Three days gives you time to explore Riga properly: the UNESCO-listed Old Town, the jaw-dropping Art Nouveau district, the Central Market, and enough of the city's creative neighborhoods to understand why this is one of Europe's most underrated capitals.

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Day 1: Old Town (Vecrīga)

Morning: Medieval Riga

Start your Riga exploration in Vecrīga, the medieval Old Town that earned UNESCO World Heritage status. It's compact enough to cover on foot but rich enough to fill an entire morning.

Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums) Begin at the square's centerpiece: the House of the Blackheads (Melngalvju nams). This ornate building was constructed in 1334 for a guild of unmarried merchants and completely rebuilt after WWII destruction. The facade is one of the most photographed in the Baltics.

St. Peter's Church Walk to St. Peter's Church (Sv. Pētera baznīca) and take the elevator to the observation deck at 72 meters. The panoramic view over Riga's rooftops, the Daugava River, and the Art Nouveau district beyond is the best orientation you'll get.

The Three Brothers Wander to Mazā Pils iela (Small Castle Street) to see the Three Brothers—three adjacent medieval houses representing different centuries of Riga's architecture. The oldest dates to the late 15th century.

Riga Cathedral End your medieval morning at Riga Dom (Rīgas Doms), the largest church in the Baltics. The organ, with over 6,700 pipes, is legendary—check if there's a concert during your visit.

Lunch: Central Market

From Old Town, it's a 10-minute walk south to the Riga Central Market (Rīgas Centrāltirgus). This UNESCO-recognized site—five former Zeppelin hangars—is the largest market in Europe and an essential Riga experience.

Each pavilion specializes: meat, dairy, fish, vegetables, gastronomy. For lunch, head to the dairy pavilion's food court for traditional Latvian dishes at local prices. Try:

• Pelēkie zirņi — Grey peas with bacon (Latvia's national dish)
• Speķa pīrādziņi — Bacon-filled pastries
• Rupjmaize — Dense rye bread with local butter

Budget about €5-8 for a filling lunch.

Afternoon: Exploring the Market & Beyond

After eating, explore the market properly. The fish pavilion is particularly impressive—smoked fish of every variety, including Baltic eel and sprats. Buy some ķilava (marinated sprats on rye bread) for a snack.

Outside the main hangars, the outdoor market sprawls with clothing, flowers, and household goods—more chaotic, more local, and worth wandering.

From here, walk back toward Old Town along Kalku iela, Riga's main pedestrian shopping street.

Evening: Old Town Dinner & Drinks

Dinner: Book a table at Province, steps from the House of the Blackheads. This is traditional Latvian cuisine done well—grey peas, pork ribs with sauerkraut, and local beer. Around €15-20 per person for a generous meal.

After dinner: Experience Black Magic, a candlelit café-apothecary themed around Riga Black Balsam, Latvia's famous herbal liqueur. Order a balsam-infused coffee or hot chocolate and soak in the atmosphere.

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Day 2: Art Nouveau District

Morning: Architecture Walking Tour

Riga has more Art Nouveau buildings than any city in Europe—over 800 in total, concentrated in what's now called the Art Nouveau District north of the Old Town. This morning is dedicated to exploring them.

Alberta iela Start on Alberta Street, the crown jewel. Nearly every building is a masterpiece, designed by Mikhail Eisenstein (father of filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein) and others. Look up constantly—the facades feature screaming faces, mythological figures, peacocks, and intricate geometric patterns.

Don't miss:

• Alberta iela 2a — Eisenstein's most famous work
• Alberta iela 4 — Stunning blue facade with female figures
• Alberta iela 8 — National Romantic style
• Alberta iela 13 — Riga Art Nouveau Museum inside

Riga Art Nouveau Museum Located inside Alberta iela 12, this museum recreates an early 20th-century apartment, showing how these buildings were actually lived in. The spiral staircase alone is worth the €8 entry.

Elizabetes & Strēlnieku Streets Continue your architectural walk along these parallel streets. Elizabetes iela has some of Riga's grandest buildings; Strēlnieku iela offers more variations on the Art Nouveau theme.

Tip: The Riga tourism office offers excellent guided walking tours of the district. Or download a self-guided map from their website.

Lunch: Quiet Centre

The Art Nouveau district overlaps with the Quiet Centre (Klusais centrs), a neighborhood of embassies, parks, and excellent cafés.

Coffee & Lunch at Kalve Riga's best coffee roaster has its flagship location here. Order a flat white and one of their Nordic-inspired pastries, or stay for a light lunch. The space is beautiful—perfect for a break from architecture-gazing.

Afternoon: Parks & Culture

Esplanade Park Stroll through this elegant park, home to the Latvian National Museum of Art (excellent Latvian art from the 18th century onward) and the Orthodox Cathedral with its golden domes.

Freedom Monument Walk down Brīvības bulvāris to the Freedom Monument (Brīvības piemineklis), a 42-meter column topped by a woman holding three golden stars. This is the heart of Latvian national identity, and you'll often see the changing of the guard.

Latvian National Opera If you've booked ahead, catch an evening performance at the stunning opera house. Tickets are remarkably affordable (often €15-40) for world-class productions.

Evening: Dinner in the Art Nouveau District

Dinner: Try Entresol for a special meal—a fine-dining restaurant set in a gorgeous Art Nouveau building. The tasting menu showcases Latvian ingredients with creativity. Budget €50-70 per person with wine.

Alternative: For something more casual, Rocket Bean Roastery has evening wine and small plates alongside their excellent coffee.

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Day 3: Beyond the Center

Morning: Āgenskalns & Central Cemetery

Cross the Daugava River to explore Riga's western neighborhoods.

Kalnciema Quarter Start at Kalnciema Quarter (Kalnciema kvartāls), a collection of restored wooden buildings hosting cafés, design shops, and a weekend farmers' market. On Saturdays, this is one of the best markets in Riga—local food, crafts, and live music.

Āgenskalns Market This neighborhood market is far less touristy than the Central Market. Come here to see how locals actually shop.

Riga Cemetery (Rīgas Brāļu kapi) For something contemplative, visit the Brothers' Cemetery—a war memorial and cemetery designed as a complete work of art. The landscaping, sculptures, and architecture create one of the most moving memorial spaces in Europe.

Lunch: Miera iela

Head back across the river to Miera iela (Peace Street), Riga's creative neighborhood. This is where young Rigans hang out on weekends—independent boutiques, galleries, and excellent casual restaurants.

Lunch at MIERA — A neighborhood café with fantastic coffee, light food, and a laid-back vibe. The courtyard is lovely in good weather.

Afternoon: Choose Your Adventure

Option A: Soviet Riga Visit the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (free, but donations welcome) to understand the 50 years of Soviet rule that shaped modern Latvia. The Corner House (Stūra māja), the former KGB headquarters, offers guided tours that are sobering but essential for understanding the city.

Option B: Beach Day Take the train from Riga Central Station to Jūrmala (25 minutes, €2.50). This string of beach towns has been a Baltic resort since the 19th century. Walk the wooden architecture of Jomas iela, enjoy the wide sandy beach, and have a seafood lunch before returning.

Option C: More Art & Architecture Return to any museums you missed: the Latvian National Art Museum, the Art Nouveau Museum, or the Motor Museum (surprisingly excellent, with vintage Soviet cars including Stalin's and Brezhnev's limousines).

Evening: Farewell Dinner

Dinner: End your Riga trip at Vincents, the city's most celebrated fine-dining restaurant. Chef Mārtiņš Rītiņš has been championing Latvian ingredients with French technique for decades. This is special-occasion dining. Budget €70-100 per person.

Drinks: Finish at Garage Wine Bar for natural wines, or return to the Old Town for a final Riga Black Balsam at Black Magic.

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Practical Information

Getting There

By Air: Riga International Airport is 10km from the center. Bus 22 runs to the Old Town (€2, 30 minutes). Taxis cost €15-20.

By Train/Bus: Riga connects to Vilnius (4 hours), Tallinn (4-5 hours), and Warsaw (10 hours).

Getting Around

The Old Town and Art Nouveau district are entirely walkable. For further areas, buy a Rīgas satiksme card for public transport (trams, buses, trolleybuses). Single rides are €2, or €5 for a 24-hour pass.

Where to Stay

Old Town: Most convenient, though touristy at night. Hotel Neiburgs is excellent.

Art Nouveau District: Quieter, beautiful surroundings. Look for boutique options on Elizabetes iela.

Miera iela: Hipster area with good Airbnbs.

Budget

Riga is affordable:

• Budget lunch: €5-8
• Nice dinner: €15-25
• Fine dining: €50-100
• Coffee: €2-4
• Museum entry: €5-10
• Public transport day pass: €5

Best Time to Visit

• May-September: Warmest weather, outdoor dining, white nights in June
• December: Christmas markets, festive atmosphere
• Avoid: November and March (grey, wet)

Tipping

10% at restaurants is appreciated but not mandatory. Round up for good service.

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The Verdict

Three days in Riga reveals a city that's sophisticated without being pretentious, historic without being museum-like. The combination of medieval Old Town, world-class Art Nouveau, and a food-and-coffee scene that punches above its weight makes this one of Europe's most rewarding city breaks.

Come before everyone else discovers it.

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Hungry for more? Our Riga Food & Coffee Guide dives deeper into the city's culinary revival.