Ghent: Belgium's Most Underrated Medieval City

Better than Bruges, more authentic than Brussels. Discover why Belgium's secret gem deserves your full attention.

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The conversation about Belgian cities usually goes like this: Bruges for romance, Brussels for the EU and Grand Place, Antwerp for fashion. Ghent rarely makes the shortlist—and that's exactly why you should go.

This university city of 260,000 has everything travelers love about Bruges—canals, medieval towers, guild houses—without the tour bus crowds. It has the cultural credibility of Brussels without the identity crisis. And because it's a real, living city rather than a preserved museum, the restaurants are better, the nightlife is real, and you'll actually meet Belgians.

Ghent is where locals go when they want to show visitors "the real Belgium." Here's why it deserves a spot on your itinerary.

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Why Ghent Works

The Medieval Skyline

Ghent's three towers—Saint Bavo's Cathedral, the Belfry, and Saint Nicholas' Church—form one of Europe's most impressive medieval skylines. Seen from Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael's Bridge), with the Graslei canal houses in the foreground, it's a view that rivals anything in Belgium.

But unlike Bruges, this isn't a city frozen in amber. Students cycle past Gothic churches on their way to class. Trendy restaurants fill ancient guild halls. Contemporary art galleries open in converted industrial spaces. The medieval and the modern exist in genuine conversation.

The Water

Canals thread through the historic center, creating the reflections and waterside terraces that draw people to Bruges. But Ghent's waterways feel more integrated into daily life—locals actually use them for kayaking and paddle boarding, and the canal-side Graslei and Korenlei are where the city comes to drink and socialize on summer evenings.

The Student Energy

Ghent University has 44,000 students, making it one of Belgium's largest. Their presence transforms the city: late-night bars, vegetarian restaurants, vintage shops, live music venues, and a progressive energy that keeps Ghent from becoming too precious.

This is a city where people live, not just one they visit.

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What to See & Do

The Essential Sights

The Three Towers Walk Start at Sint-Baafskathedraal (Saint Bavo's Cathedral), home to one of the most important artworks in Western art: the Ghent Altarpiece by Jan van Eyck. The restored panels are displayed in a dedicated visitor center—the detail is staggering, and the restoration work itself is fascinating.

Walk to the Belfry (Belfort), a 91-meter tower that has watched over Ghent's civic life since the 14th century. Take the elevator to the top for panoramic views and a close look at the bells.

Continue to Sint-Niklaaskerk (Saint Nicholas' Church), a masterpiece of Scheldt Gothic architecture with its distinctive blue-grey stone.

Graslei & Korenlei These two canal-side streets face each other across the water, lined with guild houses dating from the 12th century onward. The architecture ranges from Romanesque to Renaissance, and the reflections at sunset are the quintessential Ghent photograph.

St. Michael's Bridge The bridge between Graslei and Korenlei offers the iconic three-towers view. Come at golden hour for photographs; return at night when everything is illuminated.

Gravensteen Castle A 12th-century stone castle in the middle of the city, looking exactly like a castle should look: crenellated walls, a moat, and a keep. The interior tells the story of medieval justice (including a torture museum that's more educational than exploitative). The rooftop views are excellent.

Beyond the Center

Patershol One of Ghent's oldest neighborhoods, a tangle of narrow cobblestone streets filled with restaurants (high-end and casual), wine bars, and small shops. This was a working-class area until gentrification transformed it; now it's one of the city's most atmospheric quarters for dinner.

St. Peter's Abbey A sprawling abbey complex with formal gardens, contemporary art exhibitions in the historic buildings, and one of the most peaceful green spaces in the city. Entry to the gardens is free.

Design Museum Gent Excellent collection of Belgian design from the 17th century to today, housed in a historic mansion with modern extension. Temporary exhibitions are consistently strong.

STAM - Ghent City Museum The best place to understand Ghent's history, set in a beautifully restored abbey with a contemporary addition. The interactive exhibits trace the city from its medieval golden age through industrialization to today.

Blaarmeersen On warm days, locals head to this recreation park on the city's edge: swimming lake, beaches, sports facilities. Not a tourist attraction—just how Ghentians spend summer weekends.

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The Food Scene

Ghent has Belgium's best food scene per capita—a bold claim, but defensible. The city punches above its weight with everything from Michelin stars to student-friendly vegetarian spots.

The Must-Try Foods

Waterzooi — Ghent's signature dish: a creamy stew traditionally made with fish (the original) or chicken (more common now), with vegetables in a rich broth. Order it at Het Groot Vleeshuis in the medieval meat hall.

Gentse Neuzen — Cone-shaped candies (the name means "Ghent noses") made of raspberry-flavored sugar. Pick them up at any chocolate shop.

Cuberdon — Related to the Gentse Neus but gummier. Purple, cone-shaped, filled with liquid raspberry.

Belgian Frites — Ghent has excellent fry shops. Frituur Filip serves them properly: twice-fried, thick-cut, with a selection of sauces.

Restaurants

Vrijmoed — One Michelin star, creative cuisine based on local and seasonal ingredients. The tasting menu is around €100.

Publiek — Casual fine dining with an open kitchen and a focus on vegetables. Excellent value for the quality.

De Vitrine — Small plates and natural wines in a modern space near St. Peter's Abbey.

Chambre Séparée — Two Michelin stars in an intimate setting. Splurge-worthy.

Pakhuis — Brasserie in a converted warehouse; good for groups and casual dining.

Vegetarian Ghent

Ghent is famously vegetarian-friendly—it was the first city in the world to institute a weekly "Veggie Day" encouraging meat-free eating.

Le Botaniste — Completely plant-based, in a gorgeous space. The bowls are excellent.

Komkommertijd — Organic and vegetarian, with a lovely garden terrace in summer.

Coffee & Cafés

Mokabon — Local roaster with a café near the Graslei. Excellent espresso.

Café Labath — Specialty coffee and beautiful interior near the university.

Simon Says — Specialty coffee and brunch in the Blekerijstraat neighborhood.

Drinks

Gruut City Brewery — Ghent's urban brewery produces beer according to medieval recipes using herbs (gruut) instead of hops. Tours and tastings available.

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant — Beer bar with over 100 Belgian beers, canal-side terrace.

Café 't Dreupelkot — Tiny bar specializing in jenever (Belgian gin), with over 200 varieties.

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Practical Information

Getting There

From Brussels: Trains every 10-15 minutes (35 minutes, €10).

From Bruges: Trains every 20 minutes (25 minutes, €8).

From Antwerp: Direct trains (1 hour, €12).

By Air: Brussels Airport is 55km away with direct train connections to Ghent.

Getting Around

The historic center is compact and pedestrianized—walking is the best way to explore. For longer distances, Ghent is bike-friendly; rental bikes are available at the train station and from various city stands.

Where to Stay

Historic Center: Maximum convenience and atmosphere.

• 1898 The Post — Former post office converted to boutique hotel
• Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof — Elegant rooms in an 18th-century mansion
• Hotel Harmony — Boutique hotel with modern design in a historic building

Budget: Hostels around the center start at €25/night.

When to Visit

• May-September: Best weather, outdoor terraces open, festivals
• July: Gentse Feesten—10 days of citywide festival with music, theater, and 1.5 million visitors
• December: Christmas market, festive atmosphere
• Avoid: Late October-November (grey and rainy)

Budget

Ghent is moderately priced for Western Europe:

• Coffee: €2.50-4
• Lunch: €10-15
• Nice dinner: €25-40
• Beer: €3-5
• Museum entry: €8-12

Day Trips

• Bruges: 25 minutes by train—combine for comparison
• Brussels: 35 minutes—easy for a day of museums
• Antwerp: 1 hour—fashion, diamonds, and Rubens

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The Verdict

Ghent gives you everything Bruges promises—canals, medieval architecture, chocolate, beer—plus everything Bruges lacks: a real city with real residents, excellent restaurants that aren't tourist traps, and an energy that comes from 44,000 students rather than 44,000 daily visitors.

It's the Belgium that Belgians love. Go before everyone else figures it out.

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Planning a Belgium trip? Ghent combines perfectly with a day in Bruges for comparison—or use it as a base for exploring Flanders.